This has to be one of my first posts because this artist is so creative and innovative with color and how she enhances the shape of eyes- She is on facebook as chaosmakeupartist, and recently (and sadly) deactivated her account on tumblr. I will definitely post more of her work soon. I will note that the pigmentations she uses with shadows are difficult to find (bitchslap cosmetics, INAZ, and maybe Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics) but its more about how she applies than what she uses! Brilliant!
ChaosMakeupArtist, Megan Martinez
My INSPIRATION. Love her work.
some eyeshadow basics!
There are beautiful girls everywhere who seem to think there is one way to do eyeshadow (If you are going out to a party, there is more you can do than pile on the dark shadow and eyeliner). I think these are some exquisite photos of some options of eyelooks that (depending on color choice) can be bold and bonita or subtle and soft.
before anything: apply eye primer. Creasing eyeshadow aint cute.
eyelook 1: Using two different tones of the same color, apply the lightest color to the lid and blend the darker color upwards from the crease. For an eye-widening look, try blending the darker color from the outer corner of the crease to the middle of center of the crease.
eyelook 2: With a trio of colors, apply the lightest shadow to the entire lid, the medium shade from the outer corner of the lid to the middle of the lid, and the darkest color on the outer corner. blend blend blend!
eyelook 3: Repeat the same steps as eyelook one, but try a cool color for the eyelid, and a warm color for the crease.
eyelook 4: This look is especially evident on this model because she has deep set eyes and a pronounced brow bone- however, the eyeshadow increases the depth of the eyes. Also, matte shadows help achieve this look (something with added sparkle may not show as much contrast. Start by applying a white matte shadow on the entire lid. Use a deep gray or black to blend from the outer corner inwards. Add the dark gray or black to accentuate the crease. For added drama (this look in particular) put to use a deep matte purple and blend from the entire crease upwards to the brow bone. To highlight, add a lighter purple of lilac directly on the brow bone. It may be helpful in this case to mimic the shape of the crease of your eye, or mimic the shape of your eyebrow (it depends upon which illusion you would like to make).
The Origin and Transformation of Eyeliner
There are many products that became popular because it was an easy way to enhance the look of youth and health. For instance, instead of pinching your cheeks for color- pink powders were developed to emulate a healthy flush. Youth and health were directly connected to wealth and had (and have) a direct connection to attraction.
…Now ill tell you something you might not know
Eyeliner was first used for the same reason that football players (and many other athletes) wear “eye black”. In ancient Egypt, men and women would wear dark pigments around their eyes in order to protect their eyes from the sun, and reduce the glare of the sun. Similarly, athletes wear streaks of thick “eye black” to produce the same result of sunglasses.
In the 1920’s the idea of eyeliner was popularized after the discovery of images of Cleopatra and King Tutt’s tomb. As a woman, asserting independence was important, and many hip women began emulating the look of eyeliner.
In the 40’s the end of World War I left ladies with a shortage of stockings, so they began using eyeliner to draw a straight line up the back of their legs to look like the seam of a stocking.
As makeup generally became more popular, eyeliner sales increased throughout the world- The usage of eyeliner is very relevant to the culture you identify with. For example, for a mod westernized look you can apply liquid winged eyeliner to the top lash line. In India, kohl is used to line eyes and creates a more smokey look. It is generally applied on the lower lash line.
I love that makeup immediately alludes to history. The way you apply your eyeliner can change the era that you refer to. Above, Mark Kanemura works eyeliner like a boss, Kohl Liner is pictured in true form, Sophia Loren emulates Cleopatra, “Eye Black” is worn by an intense athlete, and Gwen Stefani wears eyeliner and is (basically) perfection.
..some brief examples!
One of my main frustrations regarding makeup artistry is the request to apply a “smokey eye”. The term itself is very subjective- for some, the “smokey eye” could simply mean that there is more eye makeup applied than an individual is used to wearing. For others, it means that your eyes are completely covered with black eye shadow. There is no right way to do anything- its simply preference.
I think the sexiest smokey eye look is one that adds dimension/depth to the eyes.
In order to create the look, you need to use more than just one color.
Smokey Eye #1 uses three colors to make the eyes appear larger- the white shadow is used in the center of the eyelid and blended, as well as on the inner corners of the eye. A silvery-grey is applied from the inner corner to halfway through the lid. Then, the darkest shade is used on the outer corner, and blended throughout the crease of the eyes, right underneath the brow bone. A dark liner is applied on the top and bottom lashlines. To finish, the darkest shade of shadow is blended slightly underneath the bottom liner on the outer corners of the eyes, and mascara is applied on the lashes. The silvery-grey is blended on the bottom lid right underneath the center of the eye, and the lightest is blended right underneath the tear duct.
smokey eye #2 is Jessica Alba- her makeup artist used lighter colors and blended darker colors on the outer corners. As you can see, it is still considered a smokey eye without looking too heavy.
Smokey Eye #3 is exquisite, but a challenge to achieve without looking gaunt. In order to achieve the look use matte shadows and make sure that you feel comfortable outlining the entire eye with liner- with some eye shapes, lining the entire eye with a dark color can make them appear smaller. It appears that only two shadow colors were used in the process (both a deep grey and a black). Black was blended on the lid and underneath the eyes, and grey was blended on the crease and towards the brow bone. The look almost mimics the look of kohl eyeliner.
Regardless of how you like to do smokey eyes, make sure you start with a primer and blend blend blend! If you are looking for somewhere to start, the Too Faced “Smokey Eye Palette” has gorgeous hues for all skin tones and eye colors. It also has little notecards about how to achieve different looks with the shadows provided.
Tribute to the absolutely incredible Alex Box (mostly with Illamasqua)
“The ‘rock ‘n roll’ vision for the look at Rachel Zoe is derived directly from Rachel herself,” said makeup artist Charlotte Tilbury. “It’s 60s-70s sexy - reminiscent of Marianne Faithfull - meets the fresh, contemporary girl of today.”
GET THE LOOK:
Dream Nude Airfoam Foundation: In order to create a “second skin” effect, Charlotte prepped the face with this lightweight formula, for a flawless finish.
Eye Studio Lasting Drama Gel Eyeliner in Blackest Black: For a sultry “feline eye,” Charlotte drew a thick line from the inner corner outward, smudging ever-so-slightly, for a smoldering effect. She then took her brush upward, tracing deep black color into the crease for an intensely hypnotic look.
Volum’ Express The Colossal Mascara in Glam Black and Illegal Length Fiber Extensions Mascara in Very Black:Rachel was clear in that she wanted “masses of lashes”. After curling and applying a set of falsies, Charlotte coated lashes liberally with these rich black thickening and volumizing formulas.
Fit Me! Bronzer: By blending bronzer just under the cheekbones, Charlotte gave the face instant lift and architecture.
SuperStay 14HR Lipstick in Beige For Good: To close the look in soft, clean fashion, Charlotte muted lips with creamy beige lipstick.
winged eyeliner :)
maybe (definitely) obsessed with this.